Have you seen some of the newest vanities lately? There is some beautiful stuff. I love the trend of open concept vanities with baskets and neatly stacked towels.
But there is just one problem.
They’re CRAZY expensive. Anywhere from $400-$1200. Yikes.
As I started to look close, I realized that it wouldn’t be THAT hard to make something like this. I soon after fell in love with the vanity in this picture. It’s an old workbench gone vanity, and I loved the rough but classic look.
So simple, but such a statement for the room.
I used this video to help guide me, and it was extremely helpful.
I followed his instructions pretty much to the T, with a few changes.
I started with the top frame, and built a square with 4 1x6s. I used a square to the best of my ability to make sure everything with aligned correctly, and drilled the boards into each other. Next came the legs.
This part is important. If you’re using a vessel sink, make sure that you account for the height of that sink when determining the height of your vanity. The made the mistake of making mine too tall at first, and had to cut each leg down. Not how you wanna do it.
I cut 4 2×4’s to the height i wanted the vanity to be. Setting the legs into place in the corners, I screwed them in from the outside.
I added two furring strips to the inside of the legs for stability, and one more 1×6 to the back bottom of the legs for support and so that I could fix the vanity to the wall later with screws.
To cover the screws that connected the 1x6s to the legs, I used these cute little wood pegs and glued them on with wood glue. Ignore the toes…
As you can see, because I used cheap lumber, the wood cracked and weathered a bit when I screwed the pieces together. Because I was going for a rustic look anyway, I went with it.
Next came the top. I knew I wanted a butcher block look for the top. Because the vessel sink and faucet would sit in the middle of the vanity and be the heavy, I needed something to support the middle of the boards.
First I built the support pieces.
Using 1x4s, I cut four blocks of wood (the short pieces). Their length doesn’t really matter, as long as they’re long enough to hold the longer pieces. I used the rest of the 1×4 to cut the two long support boards and screwed them together. You should now have 2 I shaped support pieces.
I then screwed these into the vanity 1×6 frame. Make sure your screws are long enough to go through both pieces of wood, but not so long that they’ll come out the other side.
Next came the top. I had to figure out how I wanted the top to sit. Since I knew the vanity would be pushed up against the wall on the left side and the back, I made no overhang, I set the wood top pieces flush with the frame. On the right side and front, I made a small overhang.
I had an awkward space left at the back, so I used a furring strip to finish it out. I screwed each board into the supports. Use screws with smaller screw heads if possible. You’ll hide them later, but it’ll make things easier.
I wanted the top to have a smooth, seamless finish. So I copied the method that our floor guys used back when we had solid oak floors installed in our house. Before staining, they covered the whoooole thing in thick wood filler. This filled in all the cracks and imperfections. Then they sanded it all smooth.
I used wood filler putty in between each board and to cover the screw holes. I did this in layers, so that they’d be completely filled. (the putty was pink)
Then I sanded. If more cracks popped up after sanding, I put in more wood filler, let it dry, and sanded some more.
This process is tedious, but it’ll be worth it. Trust me.
After measuring about 100 times, we drilled the holes for the faucet and sink pipe.
You’ll need to have your sink and faucet on hand to make sure everything will fit properly.
Then I added a coat of stain, and a coat of white paint. It was on it’s way!
After the stain was looking good color wise, I added polyurethane to the top.
Polyurethane is tricky business. It’s not friendly to the anxious. If you want your vanity top to look smooth AND be practical in a water-ridden bathroom, you’ll need some patience for this part.
I used a paint brush to LIGHTLY brush on the poly. Poly will show mistakes and brush marks if you aren’t careful, so I light touch is important for a smooth finish. Also, never brush back over partly dried spots. It’ll cake up and be gross.
Lightly sand by hand between coats. I added about 4 coats to mine. The finish needs to be hard and resilient to deal with water and moisture.
To create the bottom shelf, I used 1x4s across the bottom supports. I wanted a slat look, which was extremely easy. I used my nail gun to nail them into place.
This created an unfinished look in front. You could see the edge of the leg and the edge of the support piece and it just look incomplete. So I added two 1×4 pieces to the front, attached to the legs.
After everything was painted, stained, and thoroughly polyed, we were ready for action.
There are about a billion vessel sinks to choose from out there. Unfortunately the one I ordered is no longer available, but there are lots of similar ones. I like looking on amazon so you can see reviews and sometimes pictures.
I chose these two beauties.
I love vessel sinks because they’re easy to install and easy to deal with.
They require a popup drain, which are also God’s gift to plumbing. So easy and simple.
Vessel Sink, Amazon
Yellow Wire Basket, At Home
Rugs, At Home